Sparkplugs for P3 - Paint codes for P4, P5 and P6
Oil filters for P6 - Waterpumps for P6B - New rubber for P6B
About wheels for P6 and SD1 - Fuel filters for SD1 - Some SD1-parts
Ignition switch for P76 - Magstars - Engine mounts

P3
The correct plugs are Champion N8 but these are now pretty scarce nowadays.
Good replacement is N5 - don't use extended nose N9Y as the nose gets clouted by a valve.
The problem is if you go to a factor and ask for N8 they will give you N9Y as Champion list them as the replacement.

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Original colours for your Rover can be obtained from Glasurit, Rover's original factory supplier.
You can find out at their web-site and this is the way to do it:
- Click on the link Glasurit
- Select manufacturer: Rover
- Select the color name
- Click on Start Search
- Now you see the hit right in the middle of the page. Click on the color name there
- It probably gives one paint line only: Glasurit 22. Click on the paint line name
- It probably gives one option only: Standard. Click on that text
Now you get a new page with the formula and a number of options to calculate formula amounts for car part and size.
Now, whether DuPont or others can translate/cross-reference from a competitor - Glasurit formula - I do not know. I was completely satisfied with being able to get the original color from the original supplier. They even sent it so I had it the day after calling them.

Other paintsources
You can also get the paint from Mike or Jim

Listing thanks to David Williamson and Glen Wilson.

(including year of manufacture)

(For two-tone combinations the first colour mentioned is the upper colour).

The codes were provided by Mike Erickson at TowerPaint to Glen Wilson some years ago.
You can reach Mike at: 800-779-6520 or e-mail at TP1@TowerPaint.Com

Code: D - Dulux Alkyd base enamel, L - Lucite Acrylic lacquer, V - Vinyl Paint (low, med or high gloss, A - Centari Acrylic Enamel, K - Chromabase-basecoat/ clearcoat color only

Jim Walters in Canada have a car paintshop that uses ICI paint. He has a lot of Rover formulas from way back when, and can surely find the right colour for almost any Rover.
Mail Jim Walters a question, and he can send a sample, or a tin of the original ICI paint.

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Fram lists these numbers in their "Master Catalog" from 1995 as interchanging with the PH 2821A oil filter for the Rover 2000.

Listing thanks to Duane

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These numbers are thanks to Duane Kennard, with email-address: RoverP6B@pacbell.net

Here are TRW #s for the water pumps that fit P6B & SD1:

For P6B:
TRW # FP 1318 - Short nose, for Buick 300; 340. Around $50 new
GMB # 130-1420
The GMB is genuine Japanese mfg. and the casting is even nicer than TRW's, (new units, not rebuilt) and even less costly at about $40.

For SD1:
TRW # FP 1448 - Long nose, for '70s Buick V6 & V8s. $30 new

Rebuilt units are even less money. The short nose one goes for $16 from a local parts house.

All these pumps have all water outlets in the right places for the Rover engine. Don't try to use the one for the 215 Buick; it doesn't.
They are easily found at any parts house in the US, and are very inexpensive. Any parts house can cross reference the TRW #. These pumps come with a 4 bolt fan & pulley mounting flange, & I use a junk yard located pulley from either an old Ford or Buick. (I've used both) If a viscous "fan clutch" is wanted, it may be possible to swap the 4 bolt flange for the Rover drive flange, as I think the shaft is the same OD. I prefer to use a "flex fan" with the 4 bolt flange.
Duane

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Stephen Walker of S & G Walker (in the UK), has remanufactured the OEM type door rubber where steel is cast into the cast rubber door waist rubber. In his 1996 catalogue he had them priced at 72 pounds for a set of four. Currently, that would be CDN$172.80 without shipping and GST. Jonathan Wadhams (also in the UK) offers a set of rubber-strip silicon rubber without the metal strip for 4.50 pounds each or CDN43.20 without shipping and GST.
Personally, I don't fool around. I order mine from Roverco (whoops, sorry, Scott's Old Auto Rubber) in Melbourne, Australia for AUS$79.00 for a set of 4 precut. The latest batch have the required holes punched out just like the original. I like the thickness so I don't need a metal strip to add another rust problem. I also like to be able to radius the strip to exactly match the window fram after it's installed. That works out to about CDN$79.00 for the set as the dollar is about par.

S & G Walker; Telephone the UK at (1245) 460214; FAX: (1245) 450233 *********
J.R. Wadhams; Telephone the UK at (1384) 393008, FAX: (1384) 396115 *********
Scott's Old Auto Rubber in Australia at (03) 9563 3023 ********


I used Scott's to replace all the rubber on the current 1970 2000 TC. The front windscreen rubber used to be preformed for the OEM production models. The difference with the extrusion is the outside bends at the top of the glass. In the OEM or molded rubber, the bends lay down on the roof without trouble. The extruded bends want to lift at that point. I solved the problem for ME, by using black silcone rubber sealant, two C-Clamps and bits of wood. I sealed and left the clamped wood for a week. I have had no problem since --- touch that wood!
Eric Russell

The Rubber Jacking Plugs can be bought from
Price $4:50 Australian each
Part No: 361978
Scotts Old Auto Rubber
P.O Box 107
Oakleigh 3166
Australia

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Rover P6 and SD1 use the same wheels, but are not so easy to find . The stud patern is among the largest around, in fact the only other vechicle they will fit is an Austin 1800.
There are only a couple of after market wheels around . Your friendly local tyre dealer should be able to help.
A very nice wheel was fitted to the English 1985 on VDP and Vitesse and are 15".
The Superlite Co in UK can make the wheels you want.

Wheels that fit:
Austin 1800
Austin-Healy 3000
Buick - LeSabre, Centurion, Riviera, Electra 1935 to 1987
Cadillac
- DeVille and Fleetwood, 1939 to 1989
- SeVille 1977 to 1979
Chevrolet -3/4 ton vans
Chevrolet - Bel Air, Biscayne, Impala, Caprice, Kingswood 1971 to 1976
- above with HD package wagons 1977 to 1989
- Blazer 2WD 1971 to 1983
Chrysler Imperial 1967 to 1971
Ford LTD 1973 to 1975
Ford
- Thunderbird 1972 to 1976
- Galaxie, LTD, Custom 1973 to 1978
Lincoln, all except Versailles, 1960 to 1967 and 1973 to 1979
Mercury
- all 1955 to 1060
- Cougar, XR7 1973 to 1977
Oldsmobile - all fullsize RWD, 1940 to 1997
Packard - all 1951 to 1955
Pontiac - all fullsize RWD from 1940 to 1986

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There is one problem with fitting SD1 Mags to P6B .That is the front hub grease cap that has too large a diameter for the center hole in the wheel.
However there are two solutions to this problem:
1. Get the hole enlarged slightly and have a small rebate milled in the back to cleat the grease cap.
2. The easy way is to remove the original grease cap on the P6 that is a press fit over the outside of the hub, and replace it with an SD1 cap that fits inside the hub. It may need a little stretching to give a tight fit. There is nothing more to do, the Mag wheels stay standard.

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Flexible steering coupling for SD1, SE & VDP = same as Peugot 504, but heaps cheaper.
Rear hatch struts for above models = Ford Falcon bonnet (hood) p/n XFF406A10A.
Fuel pump (in tank) SD1 carb model = GM Commodore VL EFI pickup pump p/n something like 6331303
Oil pressure switch SE & VDP = GMH Commodore range (Hella) better and cheaper
Bulb failure indicator SD1/SE/VDP = GMH WB Statesman.
Clutch master cylinder = Morris Marina, but imperial threads and shorter pushrod.
5 speed reverse light switch = Morris Marina again, the whole marina is usually selling for $10 more than above items but don't even think about it :-).
Regards Kevin

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The ignition switch located on the rear of the key lock (the electrical part of the unit) is now very old and starting to fail. I have gone through 3 in 4 weeks.
Research has tracked down the original which came from a CH Chrysler/Valiant and Ranger Station Wagon (1970 - 72).
Small supplies of this rare item are still available from Mitsubishi Dealers but when existing stocks are used up, that's that.
The part number is MI-3711445. at a list price of $131:76 (no, the cents figure is not a joke). Modification is required but it is small and simple.
There are two differences between the Leyland part and the Chrysler part.
1. Large blue wire on Leyland part is light blue - Chrysler is Dark blue.
2. Leyland plug is round terminals in moulded rubber plug - Chrysler part uses spade terminals in square plastic plug. Cut off old plug and re solder to new wires. Easy!!
It is advisable to also roll the metal edges of the switch case over the plastic end and coat edges with Araldite to prevent the plug coming apart. They have a bad habit of doing this.
From: Barry Levarde, N.T. P76 Owners Club, Darwin
levarde@octa4.net.au

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Here's a tip about engine mounts from Noel Howard in the USA, that I have taken from the Rovernet: Some time ago a chap who drives a P6 in international rallies wrote an article in 'P6 News', remarking that he had used Ford engine mounts on his rally car and that they were stronger than the originals. I was subsequently contacted by someone in the States who needed mounts for his restoration.
Eventually I was able to buy them from a UK Ford dealer.
The engine mounts which can be used to replace the Rover 2000/2200 ones have the Ford part number FMU6140218. I understand from Fredie Preston, who has rallied his Rover 2000 in a number of international events, that some minor work is needed to get these parts to fit. The mounting hole centres have to bealtered, but that it can be done in a few minutes with a file.
These parts cost 7.49 GBP (that was in the summer 1995) + 17.5% tax each.
Noel Howard.(P6 Owners' Club, 4 cylinder engine tech advisor)

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